Moldova: The Country Nobody Visits
Together we’ve traveled to over 60 countries across five continents. Of all of them, Moldova is the most off the beaten track. Few Americans have heard of it, much less could place it on a map. Moldova first appeared on our radar a few years ago when we shifted focus from Western to Eastern Europe – drawn by Slavic cultures, better value, and the adventure of less touristed places. Among Eastern European countries, Moldova ranks dead last in annual visitors. Perfect.
Bracing for Grim
Many of my preconceptions about Moldova came from the book “The Geography of Bliss“, by Eric Weiner. The author travels the world investigating happiness through the lens of different countries. At the time, Moldova ranked among the least happy countries – and he painted a grim picture. We expected solemn people and difficult interactions.
I had this in mind as we stepped up to Moldovan passport control in the capital, Chisinau. I braced for sharp questions and scrutiny as we handed over our documents. Instead, a young female officer greeted us warmly, seemingly giddy, and swiftly waved us through. This interaction was emblematic of others with locals. While picking out wine at a store (Moldova’s pride and joy), a fellow shopper noticed us and helpfully pointed out the best vintage.
What the Numbers Miss
Our walking tour guide explained that the happiness statistics don’t tell the whole story. Life in Moldova is hard – many work several jobs to make a decent living, brain drain is rampant, corruption and political instability cause strife. But Moldovans’ strong social ties, connection to their land, and rich food and wine culture sustain them.
The City Itself
Chisinau only began its growth two centuries ago when it was named capital of the Bessarabia region. Before that, it was a rural village without a single paved street. Today it’s mostly low-rise buildings and one main street hosting 90% of the city’s activity. The architecture mixes Soviet brutalism with 19th century neoclassical. After traversing the massive cities of Cairo, Berlin, and Warsaw, it was refreshing that everything here was a ten-minute walk away.
Rose Gold Everywhere
Interestingly, the most common shops on the main street were gold jewelry stores, selling expensive pieces made from rose gold – common in Eastern Europe. The opulence clashed with the reality that the average annual salary in Chisinau is $12,000. We learned the reason for all the stores is that many Moldovans purchase gold jewelry as a store of wealth. After breaking from the USSR in 1991, the economy hit rock bottom and women traded in their jewelry to feed their families. It seems that thinking remains in the societal psyche still today.
The Frozen Conflict
The political situation in Moldova is tenuous. Russia actively resists losing it to the West. Moldova applied to join the EU in 2022, but must first resolve the Transnistria issue. Transnistria is a breakaway region in eastern Moldova, bordering Ukraine. Though unrecognized internationally, it operates as a de facto state and is heavily influenced by Russia.
It’s where we’re headed next.