Ho Chi Minh: Full Throttle Living
“Organized chaos” is the phrase that kept floating through my head while exploring the energetic streets of Ho Chi Minh. Well, that and “please don’t die.” This was the mantra whenever crossing a busy intersection, as motor scooters weaved around me like a school of fish. Ho Chi Minh, more commonly known among locals by its pre-independence name “Saigon”, is absolutely electric with human energy.
The Ultimate Urban Obstacle Course
In Saigon, life seems to take place mostly on the streets, for all to see and participate in. This makes it a tourist’s dream; to be able to observe the rhythm of the city and the normal everyday things people are doing. And observe you must if you want to walk out in one piece. Avoiding potholes, stepping over the guy changing his scooter oil, maneuvering around food stalls, and dodging the flood of people requires your full attention. If you want to live in the present moment, Saigon may be just the antidote.
A City of Two Tempos
Situated near to the equator, the city is hot and humid. Once the sun is up, everyone flocks to the shaded side of the street, hopping between building shadows. Unaccustomed to such sweltering conditions, we managed to sustain ourselves on fresh coconut milk before continuing our torpid treks through the heat of the day. The sunset brings relief to everyone. Small plastic tables with low chairs are set up and filled with intergenerational families and friends gathered around eating or drinking.
Welcoming the Year of the Snake
Our visit fell during Tet, the lunar new year celebration. The tradition originally comes from China and signals the beginning of spring. The mood in Ho Chi Minh was festive, with Vietnamese flags hung in the streets, parks bursting with flower arrangements, and grandiose snake-themed exhibits. 2025 is the year of the snake which signifies change – a shedding of past skin for a fresh start. Aside from the Tet decorations, we were also amused by the communist propaganda. Though very much a market-driven economy, Vietnam is still a one-party communist state. Billboards throughout the city feature slogans and images reminiscent of a bygone Cold War era.
The Long Shadow of War
During our brief time there, we learned about the modern history of Vietnam through walking tours, lectures, and museums. Between French colonial rule and the Vietnam War – which they call the American War – Vietnam has had a tumultuous last century. We visited the War Remnants museum and took in the powerful photography and stories capturing the horrors endured. Vietnam is still contending with the aftermath – the environmental devastation alone wrought by the chemical warfare America deployed will take generations and billions of dollars to fix. It was a sobering reminder of the tragedies of war.
A Warm Welcome
Given the history and the wrongs Westerners inflicted upon the land and its people, I was really surprised by the openness and friendliness we were often met with by strangers. Passersby would wave and smile at us, asking us where we were from. People went out of their way to help us. We were having lunch at a particularly lively restaurant and were a bit confused about the status of our order at one point. A young girl noticed our apparent need for assistance, and came over to ask how she could help – later tracking down our waitress to sort things out for us. The caring gesture captures how we were treated in Saigon.
Future Visit?
We very much hope to visit Vietnam again one day. The interior of the country, filled with lush mountains and small villages, seems ideal for a bike packing adventure. One day!
This blog is part of a three-part series on our trip to Asia where we travelled for a few weeks with Jeff’s dad, Greg; we also visited Hong Kong and Singapore!