Leonidio: Adventure Cycling at its Best
When people think of Leonidio, Greece - the first thing that comes to mind is its 2,000+ sport climbing routes. Also at top of mind are the town's vibrant Greek Orthodox Easter celebration; the natural mix of the Parnon mountains, red cliffs, and scenic beaches; and the eclectic expat community.
There's another very under-rated draw: adventure cycling. Leave your carbon-fibre road racing wheels at home - the frequent chunky gravel road linkups and seldom-maintained (but quiet) pavement lend towards wider tires and suggest a gravel-bike set up for max comfort. And come with climbing legs — most rides here serve up thousands of feet of vertical, often straight out of town. Some of the climbs can be steep, so easier gearing is best. No suspension is required - there are very few mountain bike trails.
We've been riding here on and off for several years, so the recommendations below come from doing this in real life — not a guidebook.
What you're in for...
Getting here & getting around
From Athens to Leonidio
Most people fly into Athens. If you're serious about cycling and want to skip the car, I'd highly recommend skipping the ride out of Athens as I've yet to find egress from the city that does not involve an insane 6-lane highway. You can take the train (hourly) to Corinth and start your ride there. Alternatively, head on over to the KTEL station (there are several, this is the correct one) and catch the morning (leaves at 8:30 AM) or afternoon (leaves at 4:30 PM) bus.
The buses will take a bike or two without issue. They go in the luggage hold under the bus. With two bikes (wheels on), there's always been ample room with other travelers' luggage. If you show up as a group, consider alternatives (like van rental or the train to Corinth). The bus ride takes between 4 and 5 hours (long but scenic) and costs about 22 Euro.
Leonidio
Once in Leonidio, there's enough riding from the center of town to keep intense cyclists on novel terrain for a week or two. Additional new terrain can be easily unlocked by either:
- Staying in a nearby town (like Kyparissi) overnight, or
- Taking the bus towards Athens or Tripoli from Leonidio for a few stops. I'll provide more specific information about this in ride-specific articles.
The town has all the non-cycling amenities you can expect from a small town. There are loads of affordable AirBnbs for all group sizes. If you're more than just a couple, check out the Rocabella. It's owned by my friends Mic and Patsy, who have fantastic hospitality and love to show off Leonidio to visitors.
Leonidio does not have a bike shop. You can pick up some bare-minimum basics at a small store adjacent to this gas station. I suggest you come with everything you need. If you do need something, head over to Vicious Cycles Athens online or while still in Athens to get your bike worked on. Jimmy there knows his stuff and they'll ship quickly to Leonidio.
Signature Rides
Tsitalia & Poulithra Loop
A short, punchy ride with a sea finish
Recovery
This short ride from town offers a fairly long climb and fantastic views of Leonidio, Poulithra, and the sea.
Tyros for Lunch via Mountains
Climb out, drop onto the beach, eat well
Moderate
Pace yourself on the first climb — it's a doozy. The descent into Tyros is a blast. Lunch at the seafront tavernas is non-negotiable. The ride back to Leonidio is more effort than the elevation profile leads you to believe.
Palaiochori and Kosmas
Limestone walls and the road the monks built
Hard
The gorge road takes you by some of Leonidio's most popular climbing crags. Options to eat in both Palaiochori and Kosmas. Lots of climbing in a more alpine environment.
When To Ride
Shoulder seasons offer the best mix of sunny weather and mild temperatures. Mid to late Spring (especially May) is my favorite time to ride as the mornings are still cool (cold, even, at higher elevations) and the days are long.
If you want to escape frigid temps and snow in central Europe and get some sun, Winters can be fantastic - just come ready for higher than average precipitation, even snow in the surrounding mountains.
Summer is hot (brutally so at mid day), but the days are long and there's little rain. Bonus: most mountain towns have a spring with fresh, cold running water year round, so you have ample opportunities to refill your water bottles.
More Cycling
These signature rides are just the beginning. The gravel roads in the Peloponnese (with Leonidio as a wonderful base camp) are endless. Though there are plenty of rides accessible directly from town, if you want to venture out, there are two morning busses (6:30 AM and a more reasonable 8:30 AM) will take you and your bike north where you can ride back to town via the coastal road or (my preference) through the mountains.
Come join us for some hearty food at a local taverna! Drop a comment if you'd like local beta — happy to share.
